The Whitby Goth Festival first drew Slid Needham into fashion—and its shadow moves through her work today

Read time 4 minutes

Courtesy of Slid Needham.

Slid Needham embodies the spirit of modern artistry, fearlessly blending the abstract with the personal. Her work challenges conventions, confronts censorship, and demands representation with bold conviction.

Slid Needham begins with the body—not as an object, but as an image, a language and a place of resistance. When Instagram removed her account for violating its nudity guidelines, censorship entered the work. “Are we being overly censored for displaying our own bodies?” she asks, turning one act of removal into a larger question: who is permitted to be visible, and who decides?

Then, an image opened another door. A university installation created with Adam Leach and Lucas Nettleton-Tate travelled through Instagram and reached the Vivienne Westwood team. What began inside the walls of Central Saint Martins moved into the world of Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood—the same digital space that restricted Needham suddenly carrying her work somewhere unexpected.

Needham understands another kind of disappearance: the moment a young creative’s work is seen while their name is left behind. Her position on plagiarism is unmistakable. “At the end of the day: credit where credit is due. Help support young talent, don’t exploit it!”

For Needham, representation without authorship is not enough. To be visible must also mean being recognized, credited and free to retain ownership of the ideas that began with you.

Courtesy of Slid Needham.

Needham has little interest in representation that arrives only when it becomes fashionable. Placing a few trans models in front of the camera may create the appearance of progress, but visibility without commitment remains another surface. For her, representation must extend beyond the image—into who is hired, heard, protected and allowed to create.

There is no clear border between Needham’s work and the life surrounding it. Gender, sexuality, friendship and daily experience move continuously between her body and the mannequin. “The process itself has to be lived,” she explains. Design becomes a conversation: something felt personally, transferred into form and returned through the finished garment.

Make-up became another part of that conversation. Although her first encounter with it came much earlier, Needham began experimenting seriously at college in 2016. The face offered another surface to disrupt—a place where identity could be constructed, erased and imagined again.

Looking back, Needham would offer her younger self something softer: “More self-love, take even more creative risks, and most of all accept help when you need it.” The advice carries no grand conclusion—only permission to move more freely, trust the unknown and make space for others along the way.

That freedom is visible throughout her work. Needham unsettles familiar ideas of gender by allowing lived experience to enter the construction of each image, face and garment. Nothing is separated neatly. The personal becomes material, and the material begins to alter how the body is seen.

Her insistence on representation follows the same instinct. Needham is not interested in visibility as decoration or diversity as a passing season. She wants space for voices too often reduced, overlooked or spoken for—and the freedom for those voices to tell their own stories.

For Needham, the work is not simply worn. It is lived.

“Art should never fit inside a box. It should shatter it entirely, leaving behind a new way of seeing the world.” – Slid Needham

Collaboration is not a footnote in Needham’s work; it is part of its construction. From entering the world of Vivienne Westwood to working alongside make-up artist Val Garland, each encounter allows another hand, perspective and discipline into the frame. For Needham, creative exchange is not about surrendering authorship—it is about allowing ideas to move, expand and return transformed.

That distinction becomes especially important in a culture where images travel faster than the names behind them. Needham’s position is simple: inspiration may circulate, but credit must follow. Originality cannot survive in an industry that consumes young talent without acknowledging its source.

Fashion has not always made that movement easy. Its conservative boundaries, selective visibility and appetite for what appears acceptable have repeatedly met Needham’s refusal to soften herself. Rather than move quietly within those limits, she presses against them—turning every restriction into another surface to disrupt.

Courtesy of Slid Needham.

Needham’s impact lives beyond the finished image. Her work leaves behind a question—about freedom, visibility and what becomes possible when the body is allowed to exist without apology.

The uncensored clothing and abstract make-up are not separate gestures. Together, they form a visual language shaped by everything Needham believes: that identity should remain fluid, expression should resist permission and creativity should never be made smaller for the comfort of others.

There is no neat ending to that conversation. Needham is still moving, still testing the frame and still refusing the boundaries placed around her. Wherever the work goes next, it will carry the same message:

The body belongs to the person living inside it.

Courtesy of Slid Needham.

Needham remains clear about what is at stake when creative expression is filtered through censorship and public judgment. Her work insists that the body can be both personal and artistic—and that creators should not have to compromise their language simply to remain visible on a platform.

Her advice to those still finding their way is grounded in what she would tell her younger self: practice more self-love, take greater creative risks and accept help when it is needed. There may be no fixed route through the industry, but Needham’s journey suggests that authenticity is built by continuing to move even when the path becomes uncertain.

What she leaves behind is not a carefully constructed idea of legacy, but an opening. A space for young artists to be credited, trans creatives to exist beyond the language of trend and bodies to appear without being reduced to controversy.

Needham is not waiting for the industry to make room. She is creating it.

Text by
Kaden Mason

Posted
October 18, 2021

Text by
Kaden Mason

August 9, 2018

Slid Needham refuses to remain in one category. The politically charged CSM womenswear designer moves between abstract make-up, uncensored clothing and performance—using the body as both material and message.

That freedom has repeatedly placed her at odds with Instagram’s nudity guidelines. After the platform removed her account, Needham began pushing further against its boundaries and asking, “Are we being overly censored for displaying our own bodies?”

Last year, she collaborated with Vivienne Westwood on the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood show performance, working closely with make-up artist Val Garland to create the models’ looks.

Montrose met Needham somewhere between censorship and self-expression to speak about creative plagiarism, meaningful representation and the ways her sexual and gender identity move through her work.

Photograph courtesy of Slid Needham.

MONTROSE

How did your work first enter the world of Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood?

SLID

At the beginning of my second year at university, I curated a performance and installation piece alongside Adam Leach and Lucas Nettleton-Tate. Through Instagram, it caught the attention of a member of staff at Vivienne Westwood. We were invited to a meeting to discuss creating a performance for the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood show in March 2018. The rest is history. 🙂

MONTROSE

When does inspiration become theft?

SLID

Taking someone else’s work and claiming it as your own is wrong. I think we can all agree that we’ve experienced it to some degree. It becomes difficult when we live in an age of mass image consumption online. At the end of the day, credit where credit is due. Help support young talent—don’t exploit it!

MONTROSE

If you could shift one thing within the creative industry, where would you begin?

SLID

We still need equal and fair representation—not simply placing a few trans models in a project because it appears trendy or progressive.

MONTROSE

Where does your work end and everyday life begin?

SLID

My work and everyday life have always felt like one continuous blur. My process often seems different from those around me. I’m inspired not only by my beautiful and talented friends, but also by my experiences with sexuality and gender identity. The process has to be lived and projected back and forth between the mannequin and me—almost like a conversation.

MONTROSE

Do you remember the first time you wore make-up?

SLID

I must have been incredibly young, but I only began experimenting with it properly when I started college at Loughborough Arts University in 2016.

MONTROSE

If you could meet yourself five years ago, what would you say?

SLID

Practice more self-love, take even greater creative risks and, most importantly, accept help when you need it.

Design Philosophy Photography Slid Needham Unique Perspectives Vivienne Westwood

By & Large

With that barely-there chiffon and bold prints, Kim fuses Fendi’s past with its future

Read time 5 minutes

Text by
Kaden Mason

Photography by
Fendi

Fashion by
Kim Jones

Posted
June 25, 2022

Courtesy of Fendi

Kim Jones' Fendi AW22 collection is a testament to the beauty found in blending contrasting elements

In the ever-evolving landscape of high fashion, designers are continually challenged to push the boundaries of creativity while honoring the rich heritage of iconic fashion houses. Kim Jones, renowned for his innovative vision and meticulous craftsmanship, unveiled his highly anticipated Autumn/Winter 2022 collection for Fendi, sending ripples of excitement through the fashion world.

Jones’ collection is a study in contrasts, where hard meets soft, winter intertwines with summery motifs, and vibrant colors collide with neutral hues. Each garment serves as a testament to Jones’ masterful ability to harmonize seemingly disparate elements, creating a cohesive and visually arresting aesthetic.

At the heart of Jones’ collection lies a commitment to timeless elegance, embodied in every meticulously crafted piece. From sharply tailored jackets to flowing chiffon trousers adorned with delicate ruffles, each garment exudes an understated sophistication that transcends fleeting trends.

Courtesy of Fendi

Jones draws inspiration from the rich history of Fendi, delving into the brand’s archives to unearth hidden gems from pivotal moments in its evolution. By reinterpreting archival designs through a contemporary lens, Jones pays homage to the brand’s storied legacy while injecting a fresh perspective into each creation.

Central to Jones’ creative vision is a nod to the visionary work of Karl Lagerfeld, Fendi’s legendary former creative director. Drawing inspiration from Lagerfeld’s iconic collections, Jones infuses his designs with elements of Lagerfeld’s bold aesthetic, resulting in a collection that seamlessly bridges the past and the present.

Jones’ collection blurs the lines between fashion and art, with each garment serving as a canvas for his creative expression. From bold prints to intricate detailing, every aspect of the collection reflects Jones’ keen eye for design and his unwavering commitment to craftsmanship.

In reimagining traditional menswear silhouettes for the modern woman, Jones empowers his audience to embrace their individuality and express themselves through fashion. From tailored coats to structured suits, each piece in the collection exudes confidence and sophistication, empowering women to command attention with every step.

“Contradictions fuel creativity in fashion. Kim Jones’ Fendi AW22 collection beautifully merges opposites, creating a harmonious symphony of style.”

While Jones’ collection pays homage to traditional menswear tailoring, it also celebrates the inherent femininity of the female form. Flowing dresses and ethereal chiffon fabrics evoke a sense of softness and sensuality, creating a harmonious balance between masculine and feminine elements.

Jones’ collection serves as a testament to the enduring power of innovation and tradition in fashion. By seamlessly blending historical references with contemporary design elements, Jones pushes the boundaries of traditional fashion norms, creating a collection that feels both familiar and refreshingly new.

Courtesy of Fendi

At the core of Jones’ collection lies a commitment to craftsmanship and attention to detail. Each garment is meticulously constructed using the finest materials and techniques, resulting in pieces that are as luxurious as they are timeless.

As spectators behold Jones’ collection, they are invited on a journey through time, where past and present converge in a mesmerizing display of sartorial excellence. Each garment tells a story, weaving together elements of history, culture, and innovation to create a narrative that is uniquely Fendi.

Courtesy of Fendi

Jones’ collection reflects a melting pot of influences, drawing inspiration from diverse cultures and artistic movements. From the bold prints of Lagerfeld’s Memphis Group-inspired collection to the timeless elegance of Fendi’s archival designs, each piece reflects a fusion of cultures and perspectives.

With his Autumn/Winter 2022 collection for Fendi, Kim Jones reaffirms his status as a visionary force in the world of fashion. By pushing the boundaries of creativity and innovation, Jones challenges conventional notions of beauty and style, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion landscape.

In addition to its aesthetic brilliance, Jones’ collection also embodies Fendi’s commitment to sustainability and ethical fashion practices. From sourcing eco-friendly materials to implementing environmentally conscious production methods, Fendi remains at the forefront of the sustainable fashion movement.

As Jones’ collection makes its debut on the global stage, it marks the continuation of Fendi’s storied legacy and its ongoing commitment to excellence. With each impeccably crafted garment, Jones pays homage to the brand’s illustrious past while paving the way for a bold and exciting future. In conclusion, Kim Jones’ Autumn/Winter 2022 collection for Fendi is a triumph of creativity, craftsmanship, and innovation. From its bold contrasts to its timeless elegance, each garment reflects Jones’ unparalleled vision and his unwavering dedication to pushing the boundaries of fashion. As the fashion world eagerly awaits the next chapter in Fendi’s storied history, one thing is certain: Kim Jones’ legacy will endure for generations to come.